Bath - A City of History

As the only British city to be regarded in its entirety as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bath is undoubtedly one of the most historically important and interesting cities in all of the UK. Originally settled as a Roman resort called "Aquae Sulis" due to the presence of the world famous thermal springs located there, today Bath is a thriving resort town, and one of the most popular tourist spots in the country.

The Roman Baths (via)

The Roman Baths are undoubtedly the main attraction to most of the 4 million people that make the 1.5 hour trip from London. First noticed by the Romans and then made popular once again under Stuart and Georgian rule for their supposed healing properties, Bath became one of the in-style destinations for the British upper class and has remained so to this day. But the Roman Baths are not all that Bath has to offer. 

The Royal Crescent (via)

Some of the beautiful green space in Bath

Given its UNESCO World Heritage Site status, it should not be surprising that the city offers more than just the baths. A fantastic Abbey, some of the best examples of Georgian Architecture in all of England, one of only four store-lined bridges in the world, great parks, wonderful shopping, and a fantastic rugby team all await visitors to the City of Bath. 

The entrance to Bath Abbey

As we only had a day to explore the city, we decided to use some of the experience that we had gathered on our trip and utilize the free walking tour of Bath provided by the Mayor of Bath's Corps of Honorary Guides. These guides, many of which are retirees with extensive knowledge of the city, provide free (really free - like no-tips-allowed-free) approximately 2 hour walking tours of the major sites of Bath. 

The Pulteney Bridge - one of only four shop-lined bridges in the world

Unfortunately for us it was pouring rain the day we visited, but our guide made the best of it and we spent as much time as we could under cover. We learned about the history of the Roman Baths and the early settlement of the city, how Jane Austen ties into the city, the different architectural styles of the city's neighbourhoods, and many more interesting facts. We even saw Nicolas Cage's house.

The River Avon and the Pulteney Bridge (via)

Even though we got soaked all day long, Bath still was a fascinating city to visit and well worth the time. It is easy to get to via train from London (and the station is right in the center of town), and is compact enough to be explored by foot in a day or two.

By Unknown with No comments

The Mystery of Stonehenge

Standing amid the towering slabs of rock it's impossible not to wonder, as millions have before you; why here, in the middle of idyllic rolling fields and deeply wooded forest? How were these gigantic stones cut and moved, tens of thousands of years before hydraulic machines and towering cranes were even an idea? Who were the people that created and built this magnificent site? What was the purpose of such a large monument? For the last  leg of our trip, we were on a journey to find out!

With a few days in the UK before our flight home, we decided to leave London for the quiet countryside of Wiltshire county. But the beauty of the surrounding rolling hills and idyllic towns were only a part of the attraction - the real appeal was the allure of Stonehenge. Famous for it's enormous rocks, and how little historians have been able to unearth about it's purpose, Stonehenge is a enchantingly beautiful sight still brimming with mystery and intrigue. 

As life in the English countryside is much slower than that of London, we found bus service between towns, and to Stonehenge, a bit hit or miss. Unfortunately the public bus route serving the site was cancelled last year leaving only two options to reach Stonehenge without a rental car. Option 1 - catch a public bus to nearby Amesbury and walk two miles to the site, or Option 2 - board the Stonehenge tourist bus in Salisbury (where we were staying) for a direct trip to the site and optional return stop at Old Sarum. 

The iconic stones of Stonehenge in all their glory.

Although we normally try to avoid tour groups by any means necessary, after a warning from our B&B owner that tourists have been killed walking along the winding road from Amesbury to Stonehenge, we decided to cough up the twenty pound/person fee for the tourist bus (this fee does include admission to Stonehenge and Old Sarum as well as front of the line access). 

As it turns out, the bus was actually quite enjoyable, although a bit pricier than we would have preferred, and the audio track that played through the speakers was more informative than annoying.

The sight as you enter the grounds.

The site's visitor centre isn't what you'd picture for a site as important and well visited as Stonehenge, especially after visits to comparable ancient sites like the Acropolis, Alhambra, or Colosseum. With only a small ticket window, gift shop, and portable lavatories on the side of a two lane country road, the site is functional and understated, fitting in perfectly with the quaint countryside. However rustic it may be, what the facilities lack in size and grandeur the stones more than make up for. 

The size of the stones is amazing once you get up close - over 24 feet tall in some cases.

As you pass under the road and finally enter the site, you are immediately entranced by the stones. A haunting and ethereal echo of days long since forgotten, the massive stones rise in majesty and stimulate even the most meager of imaginations. Theories abound regarding their construction and purpose - some sane and some gleefully insane. Whatever you believe to be true, no one can deny the massive effort it must have taken to transport and erect the stones. 

The "Heelstone" sits just outside the circle

While you can walk in and amongst the stones if you make special arrangement, the vast majority of visitors just take the short circular pathway around the stones - a thoroughly satisfying experience in its own right. The audioguide given to you for free upon entrance enhances the experience with fascinating facts about the mysterious and storied history of the site. 

A marker showing the location of one of the original wooden posts from the original henge

There's just something about Stonehenge that lures people to it...not unlike the Pyramids or the Colosseum. It's got the right combination of mystery, intrigue, and extravagant speculation that just make it a must see. The site itself is not what you'd expect (although I think that's a good thing), but the aura of seeing something that people still don't fully understand is definitely an uncommon experience and one that you won''t forget.

One of the many burial mounds scattered around the region

While the site of Stonehenge is undoubtedly the main reason that people venture to England's West Country, it should be noted that it is not the only neolithic site in the region. In fact, this particular region of the country is one of the most dense when it comes to neolithic sites. If Stonehenge managed to intrigue you, and you want to see something else, check out the henge at Avebury, Woodhenge, the Durrington Walls, or even Old Sarum.

By Unknown with 1 comment

London Walking Tour - Along the Thames

Following our successful walk through Westminister with a guide from London Walks, we decided to tighten our purse strings and tackle the banks of the River Thames the next day with only the help of our trusty tourist map.

The iconic Tower Bridge

Starting at the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, we happily snapped photos and meandered along the river bank before making our way up to St. Paul's Cathedral, the Millennium Bridge, and Tate Modern.

Is that Richard Petty Blue?

Crest on the Tower Bridge

The modern shoreline

One of the things I really enjoyed about this part of London is the contrast between the historic stone fortress, rows of traditional narrow shops, and modern glass skyscrapers. It's quite a sight to see the Gherkin peak out from behind the fortress walls of the Tower of London, or the curvacious City Hall nestled on the river bank next to the Tower Bridge.

The Gherkin making an appearance...

... and again.

Classic English pub and name

St. Paul's Cathedral

I spy with my little eye, St Paul's Cathedral in the background

Although we had our map, it stayed tucked away most the day as the city has put in small area maps along the major streets every two or three blocks - tourists seem to still be benefiting from the 2012 Olympic Games. As it turns out, all we needed for a great day out was a quick stop at lunch to warm up with some fresh Vietnamese Pho. 

The Millennium Bridge and St. Paul's

Millennium Bridge

A surprise find

Mmmm warm Pho!

By Unknown with No comments

A Brussels Photo Essay

Brussels is a hard city to nail down. Elegant at times, with its beautiful Grand Place and modern European Union headquarters, it also has an unmistakable edge, evident immediately upon deviating from the well trampled tourist path. 

Some typically Belgian architecture

The home of the EU

At least they are creative with their graffiti

Although Brussels serves as a gateway to many picturesque towns and villages, including Brugge and its jaw dropping canals, like any large city, Brussels doesn’t share their intimate atmosphere. However what it lacks for in romanticism it makes up for with flavour. 

Snow on our last day

A bit rundown, but still beautiful old building

One of many comic walls in a typical neighbourhood

The elegant Grand Place

Brussels is home to a wide variety of tasty treats, including waffles, fries, chocolate and beer, the traditional Belgian delicacies, as well as some surprisingly delicious ethnic restaurants. During our five days we were able to sample some amazing Falafel and Indian curries, which provided a healthy break from our daily dose of waffles for breakfast and fries for dinner. 

Splurging on an amazing waffle

Hot mulled wine...still a no for us

Surprisingly, the Belgian people don’t appear to be plagued with obesity the way we are in North America -  if they are, they are doing a great job of hiding it. However we seemed immune to this phenomenon and took leave after five days for the good of our waistbands.

By Unknown with 2 comments

While Calli Was on Her Photo Tour...

As Calli was heading off for the day to explore a scary, abandoned TB clinic with a group of crazy German photographers, I thought that I would make the most of my free time and visit some of Berlin's world-renowned museums. For just 14 Euro (including free audio/visual guide), I picked up a pass for all the museums on Museum Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and after a quick bagel I was on my way.

A chilly Berlin morning - perfect for exploring some museums

Museum Island is a small island (who would've guessed) in the middle of the Spree. It houses 5 of Berlin's most important museums, as well as the Berliner Dom, the Lustgarten, and a number of other important buildings and attractions. 

The Berliner Dom

My first stop also happened to be the one I was most excited about - the Pergamon Museum. Named for the Pergamon Altar that is housed within, the museum contains a number of fantastic treasures mainly from the Middle and Near East. In addition to the overwhelmingly large Pergamon Altar, the museum also houses the Market gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, a reconstructed neo-Assyrian Palace, and a merchant's house from Aleppo. 

The Pergamon Altar (via)

The Market Gate of Miletus (via)

Glazed terracotta tile details on the Ishtar Gate of Babylon

Ornamentation found at the Market Gate of Miletus

My second stop was the Alte Nationalgalerie (the Old National Gallery), which contains an excellent collection of Neoclassical, Romantic, and Impressionist Art. Although heavily damaged during Allied air raids, the building has since been beautifully restored. The main focus is on German painters like Adolph Menzel and Caspar David Friedrich, but a number of works by European masters like John Constable and Auguste Renoir are also part of the collection. In addition to the paintings, a number of amazing sculptures adorn the halls. Although not as extensive or amazing as the Prado or Uffizi, it is a great collection and very nicely displayed.

The reconstructed facade of the Alte Nationalgalerie

The Abbey in the Oakwood - Caspar David Friedrich (via)

Prinzessinnengruppe - Johann Gottfried Schadow

My third stop of the day was set in stone from the beginning. The Neues (New) Museum is the only one that requires a reservation, which I made when I bought my ticket in the morning. Just after noon I made my way into the museum, which houses an extensive collection of Egyptian and prehistoric treasures, including the famed Bust of Nefertiti. Although heavily bombed during WWII, the museum has been masterfully restored by David Chipperfield, and still retains the "entering into an Egyptian Temple" feel that was intended for it. 

A painting of the initial Egyptian Temple exhibit (via)

Stone tablets from Ancient Egypt

Praying statue of King Amenemhet II (circa 1800BC)

The famed Bust of Nefertiti (via)

Fourth on the docket for the day was the Bode Museum, and its collection of Byzantine art, sculpture, coins, and medals. The building itself survived fairly intact, a rarity in the area. While not as visited as the others, it deserves a look for its great collection of sculptures and art from Byzantium and Ravenna, as well as the controversial bust of Flora (originally, and perhaps mistakenly, attributed to da Vinci).

The facade of the Bode Museum (via)

Main atrium at the entrance to the Bode Museum (via)

Although I was tired and my feet were screaming at me to stop, I figured I might as well finish up with the final of the 5 museums - the Altes Museum. Probably the most architecturally amazing building, the exterior is modeled after the Stoa of Attalos in Athens (which we visited) and the interior contains an exact replica of the hemispheric dome of the Pantheon in Rome. It holds an extensive collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities.

The exterior facade of the Altes Museum

The rotunda gallery with Greek sculptures (via)

Even today, the collections of the museums are being reorganized, and even added to as once-lost bunkers full of amazing treasures are being rediscovered.The museums are all worth a visit (although maybe all 5 in one day is a bit too much), and cover topics that would appeal to everyone.

By Unknown with No comments