Travis Eats His Way Through Europe (Part 2 - The Adriatic Coast)

For the second installment of "reading about, looking at pictures, and becoming insanely jealous of the various foods we ate in Europe" I have decided to write about the food we consumed while traveling along the Adriatic Coast - namely in Montenegro and Croatia.

While I was fairly familiar with the cuisine we encountered in Greece, I really had no idea what to expect in Montenegro and Croatia. I thought (and Calli hoped) that it might be similar to Greek food (it wasn't) or Italian food (kind of...I guess), however in the end we found an abundance of fresh fish and local favorites to fill our bellies.

Italian inspired dishes with local twists are very common.

As you may expect, given the locations we traveled to (mainly along the coast), Croatian and Montenegrin cuisine revolves extensively around the fresh daily seafood catch from the Adriatic. Squid and octopus, mussels and clams, and fish of all imaginable shapes and size are featured on menus everywhere. 

Fried squids and grilled fish at Buffet Fife in Split

Being from British Columbia, we are definitely seafood lovers and took every available opportunity to try the local variations, including Dalmatian fish soup (Dalmatinska riblja juha); fried, deep-fried, and grilled squids; flavourful fish soups; and a wide array of grilled fresh fish. 

Seafood risotto and grilled squids with fresh greens at Cesarica in Kotor

Squids galore at Lokanda Peskarija in Dubrovnik

Our culinary experiences were not limited to seafood,however, and a few of our top food experiences in Croatia and Montenegro came from more traditional inland recipes. Pasticada (a flavourful stewed beef dish often served with hand-rolled gnocchi), fresh local greens known for their immense health benefits (like chard and spinach), and amazing hand-made pastries can be found in traditional konobas - small restaurants that started as wine cellars and are now home to some of the most traditional meals in these two countries. 

Pasticada with gnocchi

Freshly baked traditional pastries

Additionally, we were very surprised at the immense influence that Italian traditions has had on the region. Gnocchi, pizza, and risotto - all with local twists or variations - were found on nearly every menu, and almost all that we tried were very, very good (much better, in fact, than most of what we had in Italy). 

Delicious pizza with fresh local prosciutto

If you are interested in some of our favourite restaurants, we would recommend Dalmatinska Konoba Cesarica in Kotor (wonderful traditional Montenegrin dishes at affordable prices), Lokanda Peskarija in Dubrovnik (great seafood right by the water at very reasonable prices), and Buffet Fife (no website but here is a review) in Split (great traditional Croatian dishes like fish soup and pasticada).

If you missed the last part of this series (or can't remember it because it was months and months ago) you can find it here!

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Getting to know Belgian Beer at the Cantillon Brewery

A visit to Belgium isn’t complete without a tour of a local brewery – or two. For Brussels, this means a trip to the Cantillon Brewery, the only remaining brewery within the walls of Brussels. However if you’re expecting a traditional ale or hoppy lager you’re in for a surprise, as the Cantillon Brewery is one of only a handful of traditional Lambic breweries still in operation. 

An old crate for bottles of Gueze

Lambic is a flat beer produces from barley and wheat and fermented with naturally occurring airborne yeasts. In fact, the Cantillon Brewery is one of the only places you can actually see the brewing process, and taste the results from all their hard work. Relying on age old recipes handed down through generations, and original equipment dating back over one hundred years, the Cantillon Brewery produces thousands of barrels this centuries old beverage and its wonderful derivatives each year. 

The whole brewery is a blending of original and new

Each area has a description of its use

However, while the Lambic is unique on its own, it’s also only the beginning, because what the Cantillon Brewery does with it next is truly special. Using fresh fruit, and the sugars produced through further fermentation, the Cantillon Brewery also produces many varieties of a sweeter, sparkling, beverage called Gueze. Often called the champagne of beer (as it's produced using the same techniques, only using beer instead of wine), Gueze is a sparking beer with a wonderful combination of sweet and sour flavours. In addition to the Gueze, which is aged in former wine and champagne barrels for three years, the brewery also makes fruit-flavoured Guezes using tons of real, fresh raspberries, cherries, and apricots. 

Barrels of Cantillon beers aging for perfect flavour

More original equipment - still used today

As we entered the doors to the Brewery, only a short walk from our hotel, we instantly felt part of the family. The brewery is now on its 4th generation of brew masters from the same family, and everyone is warm and welcoming (not to mention eager to talk about beer).  After a thorough introduction to the brewery by one of the employees, emphasizing what sets them apart from their contemporary counterparts,  we were allowed to wander through the process using an amazingly descriptive brochure and corresponding numbers. 

Bottles awaiting a fill

Bottles age for a long time even after coming out of the barrels

Nearly one hour later, after wrapping up our self-guided tour of oak barrel filled cellars, hundred year old copper canisters, and creaky wooden staircases, it was time for everyone’s favorite part – sampling the goods! Included in the 6 Euro entry fee was a glass of one of their wonderful beers to be enjoyed in their cozy lounge area complete with wood burning fire. The only hard part was choosing between the four different varieties currently available.

Our choices - Rose on the left and Gueze on the right

After careful consideration, we opted for the Gueze and the Rose, a raspberry infused Gueze. The fact that they use 150 kilograms of fresh fruit with just 500 litres of beer is evident once you put it to your lips - this stuff is fantastic.

For more information on the Cantillon Brewery or their selection of beers (including where you can get them across the world), check out their website here. Brewery tours are carried out throughout the day, or you can just stop by for a drink or two.

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A Brussels Photo Essay

Brussels is a hard city to nail down. Elegant at times, with its beautiful Grand Place and modern European Union headquarters, it also has an unmistakable edge, evident immediately upon deviating from the well trampled tourist path. 

Some typically Belgian architecture

The home of the EU

At least they are creative with their graffiti

Although Brussels serves as a gateway to many picturesque towns and villages, including Brugge and its jaw dropping canals, like any large city, Brussels doesn’t share their intimate atmosphere. However what it lacks for in romanticism it makes up for with flavour. 

Snow on our last day

A bit rundown, but still beautiful old building

One of many comic walls in a typical neighbourhood

The elegant Grand Place

Brussels is home to a wide variety of tasty treats, including waffles, fries, chocolate and beer, the traditional Belgian delicacies, as well as some surprisingly delicious ethnic restaurants. During our five days we were able to sample some amazing Falafel and Indian curries, which provided a healthy break from our daily dose of waffles for breakfast and fries for dinner. 

Splurging on an amazing waffle

Hot mulled wine...still a no for us

Surprisingly, the Belgian people don’t appear to be plagued with obesity the way we are in North America -  if they are, they are doing a great job of hiding it. However we seemed immune to this phenomenon and took leave after five days for the good of our waistbands.

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A Holiday Tradition - Vienna's Christmas Markets

I'd had my heart set on visiting Vienna's Christmas Markets since the moment I learned of their existence - six months earlier in early May, not usually when sane people start planning for the holidays. After months of excited Christmas market chatter, and hours spent online researching the best markets in Vienna, we finally had the opportunity to visit one during our first day in Vienna. As it turns out, we loved it so much we returned nightly during our five days in the city and made time to stop at three additional markets in the area.

The lovely Rathausplatz market

Vienna's Christmas Markets, called Christkindlmarkt or Weihnachtsmarkt in Austria, are not only beautiful but also a holiday tradition that dates back over seven centuries. The first official Viennese Christmas Market was held in 1296, as an opportunity for traders and shopkeepers to sell their goods to residents, and although the goods being sold have changed with time, the attraction remains.

The largest and most popular market we visited during our time in Vienna is situated in front of City Hall, and therefore rightly named the Wiener Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz (Rathaus being the Austrian word for City Hall). In addition to hundreds of stalls selling everything from sausages and pretzels to hot mulled wine, dried fruit, and candied nuts, trees in the surrounding park are decorated with lights and there is a tall central Christmas Tree in front of the beautiful city hall. Overall, the atmosphere is quite incredible and we couldn't resist stopping in nightly to nibble on something new. 

One of hundreds of festive stalls

Ordering in Austrian is actually quite tricky

In addition to the large market at City Hall, we explored three other markets while in Vienna. The Weihnachtsdorf Maria Theresien-Platz Market, located on Museum Quartier next to the Natural History Museum, is still quite small, and only in it's fourth year of operation, therefore the walkways and stalls are less crowded than some of the larger markets (which we enjoyed). Besides a great selection of culinary treats, we found some unique gifts at the market to take home as well.

Hand painted ornaments

Although a bit difficult to find, as it's located in the central courtyard of the former General Hospital (now part of the University Campus), we found the Weihnachtsdorf im Alten AKH, (or "AKH" Christmas Market) on our second attempt and were really pleased with the younger atmosphere, clearly influenced by it's proximity to the University. We also discovered a delicious treat at this market called Schneeballen (or snowball) which is a type of pancake dough, cut into strips and formed into a ball before being fried and covered with powdered sugar. If you've ever had Italian Crostoli it tastes similar, however the consistency is more that of a cookie and less crunchy. 

Row of colourful stalls

Adorable little ornaments with fragrant cinnamon

Finally, we found our way into the historic neighbourhoods of the 7th District and the Weihnachtmarkt am Spittelberg. Although small, only a few blocks in length, this market (and surrounding stores) focuses on craft work and features some lovely jewellery, ceramics, and traditional holiday decor. I really enjoyed the handmade feel of this market and was able to find an adorable ornament to bring home as well. 

The amazingly tall tree in Rathausplatz

Strolling through these markets became one of our main activities in Vienna, taking some time away from museums and landmarks. However we really enjoyed trying new foods and immersing ourselves in the holiday spirit. After taking in the sights, sounds, and smells of these markets, it's easy to understand why so many tourists visit Vienna in December. Unfortunately, some larger and older markets we not yet open during our visit, (we were about a week too early but luckily didn't miss out all together) which seems to me like the perfect excuse to come back!

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Half Way Mark

Today, day sixty-one, officially marks the halfway point of our trip. Coincidentally, over breakfast this morning I told Travis I was ready to go home. Awkward. 

Yes, homesickness is starting to set in and honestly it's about time. However I find myself pining more for the convenience of a fridge, my own bathroom, a laundry machine, and some local Fresh is Best taco chips, more so than for family and friends. To any family and friends reading this, please don't be offended, technology (ie. Facebook) does a great job of keeping me apprised of your every move to the point that I still feel in touch. Also, please do some more exciting things, your status updates are becoming a bit passe. 

As we have officially survived two months of travel without running home, ending up in hospital, or killing each other (touch wood), we decided to celebrate and re-live some of our favorite moments thus far.

Chelsea FC Football Game

We failed to foresee any problems with catching a game on the night of our arrival in London - after a nine hour flight and significant time change. However Travis was able to fulfill a childhood dream, making it all worth while. And hey, the home team won!

Reading Festival - Performance by Of Monsters and Men

There were plenty of amazing performances at the Reading Music Festival this year, however Of Monsters and Men blew us away, and has definitely taken over our iPods since. If you haven't heard of them please go download their album right now - seriously, we'll wait. 

runner up - Florence + the Machine, playing in the pouring rain. It was worth getting completely drenched. 

The Ancient Acropolis

A bit surreal at times, it was difficult to grasp that I was actually standing on the Ancient Acropolis. After years spent daydreaming about getting there, I walked through in a bit of a fog, stopping every three feet to take another picture. Not until I was able to step back and see the site from afar did it start to sink in. I've been to the Acropolis.

Nafplio

In a surprise move, Nafplio stole top spot as our favorite place in Greece. Welcoming and quiet yet offering plenty to do, with amazing food and accommodations, we were sad to leave and only wish we lived closer to make weekend trips to this amazing city possible. 

Thunderstorms in Kotor

Our last day in Kotor it rained, and not just a little bit. I've honestly never heard thunder that loud, echoing off the stone fortifications it felt as though the storm was directly on top of us. Not to mention the rain, sheets of big fat raindrops puddling ankle deep on the cobblestone streets. The police shut down streets for fear of mudslides and the runoff left a lasting impression on the bay where the water level rose considerably.

Hotel Belvedere

Croatia has so much to offer and Travis and I agree that it deserves another visit in the future. In particular, we were blown away by the history in Dubrovnik and the chance to explore war torn Hotel Belvedere. It isn't often that the opportunity presents itself to get off the beaten path in an area seemingly overrun with throngs of cruise ship passengers, however this is exactly what our trip to Hotel Belvedere offered, only fifteen minutes from the ancient walled city.

Zagreb

The perfect end to an amazing run in Croatia, Zagreb's historic centre blew us away with pastel buildings and ornate architecture. Although one day allowed us to cover the highlights, it would be easy to spend two or three and the city has definitely become a must see for us in Croatia.

Cordoba's Mezquita

Thirty minutes into exploring this ancient religious site Travis and I looked at each other and whispered simultaneously "this is the most impressive building I have ever been in". A seamless combination of red and white Moorish arches, Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance Christian church, and thousands of years of history. Keep an eye out for our upcoming post.  

Food

Self explanatory to an extent, we have filled our bellies with some amazing meals in Europe thus far and only plan to continue that trend moving forward. Although top foodie award has to go to Travis, I've picked my fair share of great restaurants including a memorable Thai restaurant in Barcelona (who knew?). Absolute top meals to date include grilled squids in Kotor, Pasticada in Split, and Piri Piri chicken in Lisbon.

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Lisbon in Pictures

Our four short days in Lisbon were shortened by a short bout of heatstroke, and the most comfortable bed we've encountered yet (making it even harder to get up in the morning). However, even with two weeks, Lisbon has so much to see and do we couldn't have fit it all in.

What we were able to fit in - three museums, a monastery and streetcar ride, the spiciest Goa curry we've ever eaten, some shopping while exploring downtown, an enormous street market Sunday morning, and two fabulous feasts of piri-piri chicken...

A funicular and graffiti

Typical architecture in Lisbon

The Santa Justa Elevator - in operation for more than 100 years

The Carmo Convernt - roofless but still an amazing place

Lisbon has some amazing graffiti artists

Treasures at the weekly flea market

Tram 28 still makes the rounds

Praca do Comercio - one of the main squares

Beautiful architecture in Belem

Art in the Berardo Museum

A Warhol at the Berardo

Details on the Jeronimos Monastery - UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Jeronimos Monastery from afar...it's pretty big

A Portuguese take on Goa curry...tasty and spicy

Piri Piri Chicken - never, ever touch your eyes!

... all of which left us too exhausted to check our bus tickets to Seville before heading to the station. As it turned out, our bus departed at 10:00 and we realized we were at the wrong station at 8:30. Two metro rides across town and a mad dash through the station, we found the correct bus and settled in, saying good-bye to Lisbon... for now.

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