Trogir, Getting There is Half the Fun

One of the places on our must-see list of daytrips was the UNESCO World Heritage site of the historic centre of Trogir. Just a one-hour boat or bus ride away from Split, Trogir is widely regarded as the best-preserved example of a Romanesque-Gothic historic center in all of central Europe. With this in mind, we decided that Trogir would be well worth a day of exploring and set out from Split on our second day there. 

Trogir from the water - the bridge opens up to let boats pass

We decided that taking a boat to Trogir would provide a different view of the area, so we set off for the harbour and hopped on the small boat that ferries tourists and locals alike to and from Trogir. What we had forgotten, however, was that there had been a huge thunderstorm the previous night, in turn it had made the seas a bit rough. Well, more like very rough. Despite the waves, causing the boat to involuntarily replicate the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland, it proceeded to chug along and eventually we made it to Trogir.

During a moment of calmness we snapped a photo of the boat

As we left the boat and regained our land legs, the view towards the historic centre made it quickly apparent why Trogir was inducted as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. The city has been continuously lived in for over 2300 years, and its core is a blending of Greek, Venetian, and Roman influences. The historic city center is actually an island, separated from the island of Ciovo and the mainland by narrow bridged canals.

Lovely sail boat docked in the canal

Palm trees along the promenade

Kamerlengo Fortress along the canal

The city is like a postcard. An expansive palm-lined promenade allows tourists and locals to enjoy a cappuccino while gazing enviously at the million dollar yachts tied up along the canal. 15th century walls surround much of the city with the magnificent 17th century city gate allowing the droves of visitors to enter after enjoying said cappuccinos. Churches and palaces ranging from the 13th to 15th centuries, many still with the original coat of arms of the families who once resided there, enchant the imagination with their stunning architectural features. An finally, the Cathedral of St. Lawrence caps it all off. The massive structure took hundreds of years to complete, a fact which is evident in the mixing of styles of the Romanesque-Gothic basilica. What really makes the area really special however, is the portal on the west entry, a masterpiece of art by famous Croatian sculptor Master Radovan.

The entire city could be explored in just a few hours, but spending some time getting lost and finding hidden treasures in the winding back streets makes it a more rewarding experience. We wandered around looking in shops, exploring the narrow streets, and snapping hundreds of pictures. 

Some hidden gems down the streets of Trogir

Coat of Arms still remains on this home

Cathedral of St. Lawrence

On our way back to the dock to catch the boat home, we discovered that the waves and wind were preventing the company from running the ferry. We were informed that we should probably take the bus instead. We made the short walk over to the bus station and caught the city bus into town. It took about an hour and was a fairly comfortable ride, although less scenic that the boat. 

We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to Trogir and would recommend it to anyone visiting Split, or Croatia for that matter. It was also a fabulous day for taking photos, more can be seen on our Flickr page (just click on the "photos" link on the top menu bar).

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Split Kayaking Adventure

On our third day in Split we decided to (finally) get out on the water, something the weather prevented us from doing in Kotor a couple of weeks earlier. Due to the size of the city and unfamiliarity with kayaking on the open sea, we contacted Red Adventures Croatia who offer a half day tour complete with transportation and all necessary equipment. The price tag? Forty Euro per person, a bit steep for our budget but we fudged the numbers a bit and found the room. 

The morning of our kayaking adventure we waited on our apartment front steps placing bets on what kind of vehicle would pull up to greet us, laughing at how silly three people would look piling onto a scooter. The car was unmistakable with a couple kayaks tied to the roof and we quickly realized we were the only tour participants for the day - a private guide for three and a half hours? The "steep" price just became a great deal!

As we paddled around Marjan hill, a protected park offering lovely scenic views, our guide Mario pointed out many of the buildings along the shore including a marine biology research centre and one of many summer homes of previous Yugoslavian president Josip Tito. A wealth of information, Mario shared some fun facts about the tourism industry and the stone quarry utilized to build the White House. After a few hours we got our first glimpse of the Old Town from the harbor; although it was a bit busy with cruise ship passengers being ferried to shore, Mario was patient and waited to guide us across during a lull in the traffic (and after our arms had a little rest). 

After three and a half hours of paddling we were happy to spot Drazen and his little car on the shore* - our ride home after a long morning. We took a moment to swim before getting changed into dry clothes and piling into the car as the first inklings set in of how sore we would be the next day. 

*We may or may not have paddled past a nude beach of sorts during our trip, or perhaps it was just a coincidence that so many naked men were tanning themselves on the rocky shore. Either way we took in a bit more "scenery" than we paid for...

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Split - Just Another Walled City?

As our journey through Croatia continued, we found ourselves in Split - yet another charming city full of history and ancient stone architecture. However it turns out that Split is actually very different from Kotor, Perast, Dubrovnik, and even Trogir (a neighbour one hour away we visited by day trip).

Old Town walls in Split - view from the cathedral belltower

Illustration of Diocletian's Palace, Paris 1912 (via)

Initially constructed in preparation for Roman Emperor Diocletian's retirement  in 305 AD, Diocletian's Palace was more a luxurious villa/military camp  than a palace. Complete with a main square, public and private apartments, and various religious buildings including a cathedral and mausoleum, the rectangular palace was surrounded by huge gates and watchtowers. After being abandoned by the Romans, the palace sat empty until the 7th century when nearby residents sought refuge there from invading barbarians. It has been occupied ever since and is now one of the most famous and complete remains of a Roman Palace.

Perhaps what sets Split apart from many of the other fortified cities along the Adriatic coastline that we've visited lately, is the way in which the more modern city has swallowed up the ancient historic centre. Unprotected as an official heritage site until 1979, urban development pushed up around Diocletian's Palace before breaching the gates and spilling onto the worn stone streets. 

Sphinx in the main square - 3 of the original 13 still exist in Split

Entrance gate on the East end of Old Town

Stone buildings in Old Town Split

Local produce at the daily outdoor market

As a result, modern storefronts and family dwellings stand in contrast with Roman architecture dating back thousands of years, often covering or replacing it completely. The result is a Frankenstein-esque aesthetic and unique atmosphere where Lacoste clothing stores compete with ornate cathedral belltowers for the attention of the tourist hoards on a daily basis.

It's unfortunate that it's so difficult to decipher where the ancient sites once stood. From the top of the belltower of the Cathedral of St. Duje, it is possible to make out a few stretches of stone fortification still intact, however don't look away, the buildings on each side tend to blend together and with just a blink of the eye the portion of wall you spotted moments earlier has disappeared, swallowed up by the city.

At first I was a bit disappointed by the palace and Old Town as the surrounding neighbourhoods encroach on the historic sites making them hard to admire and ultimately suffocating the Old Town (there's a running joke in Split of a tourist asking where the Palace is, and a local informing them they are already in it). After an hour on our first day we toured the Cathedral of St. Duje and its crypt, the main square, and the Temple of Jupiter - where were the thirty foot walls to climb or the ancient fortress perched on a mountain top to explore?

What I had yet to realize is that half the tourism draw to Split is the opportunity to marvel at the ancient world and bustling modern city interwoven, as a fully functioning city including historical sites, modern shopping centres, and a daily market offering local produce, fish, and household items, all within the Old Town centre. It's actually quite amazing to look around at daily life unfolding around you as it has every day for thousands of years. 

Cathedral Belltower, Diocletian's Palace

Staircase to the top of the belltower, Cathedral of St. Duje

Cathedral Crypt where it's said Diocletian was buried

I've heard a rumour that visitors often struggle to fully appreciate both Dubrovnik and Split, and if a tourist loves one they won't like the other; however, after exploring each city over the past week I'd challenge this perception. By taking each city for what it is, and not trying to make it anything it isn't, it's very possible to fully enjoy all that Split and Dubrovnik have to offer.

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