Sunday, February 10, 2013

The Mystery of Stonehenge

Standing amid the towering slabs of rock it's impossible not to wonder, as millions have before you; why here, in the middle of idyllic rolling fields and deeply wooded forest? How were these gigantic stones cut and moved, tens of thousands of years before hydraulic machines and towering cranes were even an idea? Who were the people that created and built this magnificent site? What was the purpose of such a large monument? For the last  leg of our trip, we were on a journey to find out!


With a few days in the UK before our flight home, we decided to leave London for the quiet countryside of Wiltshire county. But the beauty of the surrounding rolling hills and idyllic towns were only a part of the attraction - the real appeal was the allure of Stonehenge. Famous for it's enormous rocks, and how little historians have been able to unearth about it's purpose, Stonehenge is a enchantingly beautiful sight still brimming with mystery and intrigue. 

As life in the English countryside is much slower than that of London, we found bus service between towns, and to Stonehenge, a bit hit or miss. Unfortunately the public bus route serving the site was cancelled last year leaving only two options to reach Stonehenge without a rental car. Option 1 - catch a public bus to nearby Amesbury and walk two miles to the site, or Option 2 - board the Stonehenge tourist bus in Salisbury (where we were staying) for a direct trip to the site and optional return stop at Old Sarum. 

The iconic stones of Stonehenge in all their glory.

Although we normally try to avoid tour groups by any means necessary, after a warning from our B&B owner that tourists have been killed walking along the winding road from Amesbury to Stonehenge, we decided to cough up the twenty pound/person fee for the tourist bus (this fee does include admission to Stonehenge and Old Sarum as well as front of the line access). 

As it turns out, the bus was actually quite enjoyable, although a bit pricier than we would have preferred, and the audio track that played through the speakers was more informative than annoying.

The sight as you enter the grounds.
The site's visitor centre isn't what you'd picture for a site as important and well visited as Stonehenge, especially after visits to comparable ancient sites like the Acropolis, Alhambra, or Colosseum. With only a small ticket window, gift shop, and portable lavatories on the side of a two lane country road, the site is functional and understated, fitting in perfectly with the quaint countryside. However rustic it may be, what the facilities lack in size and grandeur the stones more than make up for. 

The size of the stones is amazing once you get up close - over 24 feet tall in some cases.

As you pass under the road and finally enter the site, you are immediately entranced by the stones. A haunting and ethereal echo of days long since forgotten, the massive stones rise in majesty and stimulate even the most meager of imaginations. Theories abound regarding their construction and purpose - some sane and some gleefully insane. Whatever you believe to be true, no one can deny the massive effort it must have taken to transport and erect the stones. 

The "Heelstone" sits just outside the circle

While you can walk in and amongst the stones if you make special arrangement, the vast majority of visitors just take the short circular pathway around the stones - a thoroughly satisfying experience in its own right. The audioguide given to you for free upon entrance enhances the experience with fascinating facts about the mysterious and storied history of the site. 

A marker showing the location of one of the original wooden posts from the original henge

There's just something about Stonehenge that lures people to it...not unlike the Pyramids or the Colosseum. It's got the right combination of mystery, intrigue, and extravagant speculation that just make it a must see. The site itself is not what you'd expect (although I think that's a good thing), but the aura of seeing something that people still don't fully understand is definitely an uncommon experience and one that you won''t forget.

One of the many burial mounds scattered around the region


While the site of Stonehenge is undoubtedly the main reason that people venture to England's West Country, it should be noted that it is not the only neolithic site in the region. In fact, this particular region of the country is one of the most dense when it comes to neolithic sites. If Stonehenge managed to intrigue you, and you want to see something else, check out the henge at Avebury, Woodhenge, the Durrington Walls, or even Old Sarum.

By Unknown with 1 comment

Friday, February 8, 2013

Surprised by the Victoria and Albert Museum

Amid all of London's amazing (and free!) museums, it may be easy to overlook the Victoria and Albert Museum - in fact we almost did. Luckily, we decided to pop in for an hour, as it was free and close to our hotel, and we were completely surprised by it's ability to offer something unique and different when compared to many of the more traditional and famous museums in the area. 

The facade of the V&A (via)

The beautiful glass sculpture in the lobby


A grand piano in the paintings hall

A great example of Chinese sculpture

Walking in, we only knew that the museum's displays are focused on art and design. But this only begins to describe the treasures it holds, and from the moment we entered the beautiful Victorian building to the moment we left, we were surprised and impressed with what uncovered around every corner. 

A screen from a home in the ancient Middle East
Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Victoria and Albert Museum lies in it's laid out. Pieces are grouped into categories (Fashion, Art, Metalwork, Sculpture, Architecture, Painting...) and then displayed by period, which allows visitors the unique opportunity to compare similar trends within an era of time. This provided a stark contrast to the many museums we visited prior that display their items by civilization or origin (Egyptian, Roman, Middle Eastern...). This layout also allowed us to compare and contrast many of the different trends in far reaching areas of the world at a single time in history. As a result, delicate hand-sewn shoes worn in Europe reside next to two-toed socks worn with sandals in Asia dating to the same time period, while a nearby case holds an arrangement of glistening jewels showcasing some of Marie Antoinette's incredible rings and pendants, as well as those worn by her counterparts during the same period in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East.

Medieval wooden sculpture

Beautiful stained glass

The Victoria and Albert Museum houses a permanent display of over 4.5 million pieces and is sure to offer something for everyone in your party. While we thoroughly enjoyed many of the displays, Calli was particularly fond of the costume collection featuring designer outfits and accessories from the 1600s to present day. It was amazing to see the many layers of undergarments and petticoats that went into the outfits of the 17th century and see how drastically the styles changed as we circled the room. To demonstrate the fashion trends, the displays incorporate many runway pieces from famous design houses including Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, and Valentino.

1960s style

Sex Pistols-inspired punk style

Some articles from Christian Dior

Another section of the museum we found fascinating was the architecture displays. Containing building elements such as the two top stories of the facade of the Sir Paul Pindar house, a survivor of the Great Fire of London that dates to the 1600s, and an almost intact Renaissance chapel from Santa Chiara, Florence, it's impossible to not be impressed. 

The top two stories of the Paul Pindar House (via)

For those that love art, a wonderful collection of paintings from the  likes of Constable, Turner, and even Raphael await. Like sculpture instead - you're in luck as works from Bernini, Canova, Rodin, and many others await. And best of all, you can enjoy them in relative peace (when compared to the National Gallery or TATE) as the V&A is much less busy than many of London's other museums. 




Whatever you like in museums, you are sure to find something that you like in the Victoria and Albert Museum - and probably something you didn't even know you like as well.



As with the majority of the free museums in London, you do have to pay for some of the temporary exhibits if you want to see them. To check out what's on when you are there, you can visit their website here.

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Hey there!

Calli and Travis returned from a four month trip through Europe more excited than ever to hit the open road. Who knows where they'll end up next...

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