Photos from the Berlin Photo Tour (It's About Time...)

Nearly six months after an amazing Photo Tour of an abandoned Tuberculosis Clinic on the outskirts of Berlin, I've finally had a chance to edit the photos and post them to Flickr. Apologies for my tardiness, I'll blame the delay on life in general which always seems to be too busy. 

For more information on the incredible lineup of photo tours provided by Go2Know, check out their website (using Google translate). 

More photos are available on our Flickr page, which you can always reach via the little pink stamp graphic over on the right hand sidebar.

I'm so pleased with how the pictures turned out, and how wonderfully my Nikon D60 handled the low light conditions. The photography tour was a wonderful experience, one I'd love to participate in again (if only we lived closer to Berlin!).

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Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp - Part II

One of the most moving and memorable parts of our trip was a visit to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp in Germany. In order to share the camp's story and the full impact of our visit, we've split this post into two parts. You can read the first half of this post here.

Although not intended to be an extermination camp, as the war progressed gas chambers and ovens were constructed as a means to kill large numbers of prisoners. Due to intentional destruction and neglect during the camp's time under Soviet control, the remains of Station Z (the only "way out" of Sachsenhausen for many prisoners) have only recently been uncovered. 

Initially prisoners were shot by SS guards before the use of gas chambers

As we walked around the decrepit foundation, the only evidence remaining of Station Z's existence, Dennis explained the many different methods employed by the Nazi's to kill prisoners. Although it was extremely upsetting to talk of the Nazi's search for more efficient means of killing prisoners, always taking into consideration what was best for their soldiers doing the killing, it was even more dreadful to acknowledge the events that took place underfoot only sixty-ish years earlier. Estimates have put the total number of lives lost at Sachsenhausen at 30,000, however this number is difficult to determine as thousands of Soviet prisoners of war were killed immediately upon arrival at the camp without being registered, their bodies disposed of in mass graves. 

The faces of six Russian civilians upon arrival at Station Z

The slumping foundation - all that remains

Four large ovens inside Station Z

In the Spring of 1945, with the Red Army advancing, the SS officers ordered the evacuation of Sachsenahusen and 33,000 inmates were sent on a forced "death" march towards the northeast. Unfortunately many of these prisoners were malnourished or physically exhausted and were shot by the SS after collapsing en route. As a result, only 3,000 inmates remained on April 22, 1945 when the Red Army and the Polish Army's 2nd Infantry Division liberated the camp and surrounding area. After the liberation, Sachsenhausen came under Soviet control and was renamed Soviet Special Camp No. 1. The camp was used to house German officers convicted of war crimes, anti-communists, and Nazi collaborators. The use of forced labour, prisoner abuse, and poor conditions continued, and mortality rates during this time were no better than those under the previous Nazi regime. 

Looming wall and guard tower

In 1950 the camp was officially closed, and the majority of the buildings on site were demolished, likely to hide any evidence of Soviet wrong-doing. In 1956 the site was established as national memorial with a strong focus on the suffering of political prisoners over the other minority groups detained. However, not until the fall of East Germany was it possible to complete excavations of the site. Holding back tears, it was obvious that everyone in our group had been moved by the visit. Today, the memorial at Sachsenhausen is open to the public 365 days of the year for family members and visitors to pay respect.

Although difficult at times, our visit was extremely rewarding due to the way in which Dennis'  stories connected us emotionally to the site. If you find yourself in or around Berlin, don't shy away from this site - Sachsenhausen is worthy of a visit if only to pay respect to the brave individuals who spent time there.

At the end of our time together, while aboard the train back to Berlin, Dennis shared his feelings on being German and the confusion he has personally felt about his country's past, a struggle many young Germans seem to be dealing with. Although it may seem contradictory that he leads tours of the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp while coming to terms his German heritage, Dennis explained that he has made a conscious decision to share the events that unfolded there in an effort to ensure that they are not forgotten; because as painful as it may be to walk amongst the looming guard towers, barbed wire fences, and twisted remains of four large ovens, "[t]hose who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it". (Santayana, 1906). 

*Vive Berlin Tours offers tours of Sachsenhausen for free (the guides work on a tip basis) and ask only for a 1 Euro contribution per person donated to the Museum and Memorial site to help pay for its maintenance and preservation. Although free, tips for the guides' time and energy are always appreciated and (probably) necessary to ensure great guides like Dennis can continue to pay their bills. We were only able to participate in this one tour with Vive Berlin Tours, however if Dennis is any indication of the quality of their guides, we are certain that any of their other wonderful sounding tours will be equally enjoyable.  

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Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp - Part I

One of the most moving and memorable parts of our trip was a visit to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp in Germany. In order to share the camp's story and the full impact of our visit, we've split this post into two parts.
 

It's impossible to visit Germany, and it's capital Berlin, without acknowledging the events that unfolded under Nazi rule during the Second World War. From the burning of the Reichstag (that enabled Hitler and the Nazi party to take control), to bullet riddled marble columns on Museum Island, and the crumbling remains of the Berlin wall, evidence of the war and its outcome, a divided Berlin, is everywhere.

Wanting to better understand the events in Berlin during this time, and pay our respects to those that suffered and lost their lives during the holocaust, we decided to visit the Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum located on the former grounds of the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp. 

Although the memorial site can be explored independently, with the help of an audio guide, we decided to join a guided tour, hoping it would provide more insight into the events that unfolded there. Fortunately, our decision proved to be a good one, as our guide Dennis from Vive Berlin Tours, turned out to be not only a wealth of information, but also a very gifted and effective story teller, seamlessly weaving the real life accounts of three different prisoners into the tour and making the entire visit that much more meaningful. 

Located on the outskirts of Oranienburg, a small town about fifty minutes by train from Berlin, Sachsenhausen was primarily used as a labour camp and political prison from 1936 to 1945. Created as the model concentration camp, the standard from which others would be built, Sachsenhausen was the result of a thoroughly thought out architectural design intended to illicit feelings of complete Nazi dominance on those interned within it's walls.

Guard Tower A flanked by two of the only buildings still standing

Gravel pads mark the location of the former barracks

Sachsenhausen was an important concentration camp for many reasons, most notably it's close proximity to Berlin. As a result, the administrative headquarters for all concentration camps was located in Oranienburg, and the nearby grounds became a training centre for Schutzsaffel (SS) officers who would later be sent to other concentration camps throughout Europe. As well, Sachsenhausen was used as an example concentration camp for journalist tours and the well-oiled Nazi propaganda machine during the early years of the war.  Many reports at the time actually depicted the camp as quite pleasant; however, once fully immersed in the holocaust, the Nazi Party no longer concerned itself with maintaining the concentration camp's image. 

As a labour camp, prisoners at Sachsenhausen worked long days in the nearby manufacturing plants, including a brickworks factory that was known in camp for it's high mortality rates. Interestingly, the Concentration Camp was also home to the largest counterfeiting operation ever  which produced fake American and British currency as part of a plan to undermine the economies of these two countries by dumping them into the streets. Although this plan was never completed, millions of 5, 10, 20, and 50 pound notes were used to make purchases and and seamlessly made their way into circulation.

A single cell reserved for important political prisoners

A scratchy blue and white striped prison uniform

Although only two barracks are still standing, in addition to Guard Tower A (main gate) and the perimeter wall, it's actually quite easy to get a good understanding of the camp's layout. 
As we sat in the small common area of one of the barracks, situated between the lavatory and sleeping area, Dennis explained that the barracks often housed upwards of two hundred and fifty prisoners each, with only eight toilets and two washing troughs fed with cold water. The prisoners were only allowed access to use the facilities for thirty minutes at the beginning and end of the day, making it impossible for everyone to all maintain a proper level of hygiene. As a result of these living conditions, and the harsh winters, disease, infection, and frostbite was prevalent throughout the camp.

Eight toilets in a row

Two wash bins (left) and small foot baths (right)

Survivor accounts have painted a gruesome depiction of both the horrific conditions within camp and the prevalence of prisoner abuse. Abuse from SS guards was a part of daily life in the camp, including brutal beatings, torture, and murder; however, I was surprised to learn that infighting amongst prisoners was also regular. Fueled by the camp's practice of labeling the prisoners' uniforms using coloured triangles to represent their alleged "crimes" (red for communists, green for convicted criminals, pink for homosexuals, a yellow Star of David for Jews, etc...), a hierarchy quickly developed within camp. Although the main minority group targeted by the Nazi's was the Jewish community, it's important not to lose sight of the many minority groups targeted by the Nazi's, including Romani (gypsies), people with disabilities, homosexuals, Jehovah's Witnesses, Soviet and Polish citizens, and Soviet prisoners of war. 

This badge denotes a Jewish prisoner

Prisoners in this area were shot immediately

For more information about Sachsenhausen and our guided visit, you can read part two of this post here. 

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Our visit to the Reichstag (aka Travis Gets to Sit in Angela Merkel's Chair)

As one of Berlin's most recognizable buildings, the German Reichstag (or parliament) is a popular stop on many a Berlin itinerary. However, despite its popularity, many people opt to take in only the building's exterior without venturing inside - a fact made even more surprising considering tours are free.

The newly remodeled facade of the Reichstag

Completely free attractions, especially of this calibre, are a rarity for travelers in Europe; however, in this situation it's true - with only one small catch. Visitors must register ahead of time (two weeks or more in advance, to be safe - however it only took us a couple days in the low-season) and provide passport information as well as three date/time preferences. If all checks out and you are deemed fit to visit, you will receive emailed confirmation confirming the time of your visit.

The parliament was in session during our time in Berlin, and therefore our tour was scheduled for the evening after the politicians had taken off for the night. After a quick security screening (like the airport but much more efficient), we joined the tour group and our guide.

The "fat chicken" in the plenary chamber

Lots of art brightens up the building

What can we say about our guide...a typically "German" German with a (hilarious) dry sense of humour and a seemingly boundless amount of knowledge of the history of the building and the German government. The tour lasted just over an hour and we saw meeting rooms, meditation rooms, the plenary chamber, remnants of the old structure, the tunnel that the arsonist that burnt it down may have entered from, and tons and tons of art. Oh, and Travis got to sit in Chancellor Angela Merkel's seat in the meeting room of the CDU/CSU party (sorry no picture - we had to be quick in there).

Just picture Travis smiling and being forced to make an impromptu speech (via)

The tunnel possibly used by the arsonist to burn the building down

The building in 195 after the end of the war

The architecture of the building itself is stunning. The redesign by Norman Foster, built within the shell of the previous building, is a brilliant combination of old and new. Many original walls, including one with graffiti left by Russian soldiers, are intermixed with modern and functional new aspects of the building. 

The famous graffiti left by Russian soldiers

Perhaps one of the most intriguing aspects of the Reichstag building is the abundance of art on display. The German government is obliged to spend a certain percentage (2% on average) of revenues on the arts each year, and this is represented by over 30 beautiful pieces scattered throughout the building. From sculpture to modern art, all of the pieces have intricate and deep meaning and our guide's explanation of what they were meant to convey just added to the tour.

A wall of metal boxes for each of the members of government murdered since the start of the war

The guided section of the tour ended at the entrance to the famous glass dome of the Reichstag building. While our guide made his way back downstairs, we were given audioguides and allowed to wander the dome for as long as we wanted. The (typically German) audioguides sensed where you were on the walk up the spiraling ramp to the top and back down and told you relevant information about your view across the city from that particular vantage point.

The beautiful glass dome

Looking down into the plenary chamber

The quote of the day came from our guide when, after warning us to watch our step in a tricky area of the meeting room, one of the participants (not watching their step) fell superbly onto their backside, to which he responded "I told you to watch that step...JESUS CHRIST!" 

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While Calli Was on Her Photo Tour...

As Calli was heading off for the day to explore a scary, abandoned TB clinic with a group of crazy German photographers, I thought that I would make the most of my free time and visit some of Berlin's world-renowned museums. For just 14 Euro (including free audio/visual guide), I picked up a pass for all the museums on Museum Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and after a quick bagel I was on my way.

A chilly Berlin morning - perfect for exploring some museums

Museum Island is a small island (who would've guessed) in the middle of the Spree. It houses 5 of Berlin's most important museums, as well as the Berliner Dom, the Lustgarten, and a number of other important buildings and attractions. 

The Berliner Dom

My first stop also happened to be the one I was most excited about - the Pergamon Museum. Named for the Pergamon Altar that is housed within, the museum contains a number of fantastic treasures mainly from the Middle and Near East. In addition to the overwhelmingly large Pergamon Altar, the museum also houses the Market gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, a reconstructed neo-Assyrian Palace, and a merchant's house from Aleppo. 

The Pergamon Altar (via)

The Market Gate of Miletus (via)

Glazed terracotta tile details on the Ishtar Gate of Babylon

Ornamentation found at the Market Gate of Miletus

My second stop was the Alte Nationalgalerie (the Old National Gallery), which contains an excellent collection of Neoclassical, Romantic, and Impressionist Art. Although heavily damaged during Allied air raids, the building has since been beautifully restored. The main focus is on German painters like Adolph Menzel and Caspar David Friedrich, but a number of works by European masters like John Constable and Auguste Renoir are also part of the collection. In addition to the paintings, a number of amazing sculptures adorn the halls. Although not as extensive or amazing as the Prado or Uffizi, it is a great collection and very nicely displayed.

The reconstructed facade of the Alte Nationalgalerie

The Abbey in the Oakwood - Caspar David Friedrich (via)

Prinzessinnengruppe - Johann Gottfried Schadow

My third stop of the day was set in stone from the beginning. The Neues (New) Museum is the only one that requires a reservation, which I made when I bought my ticket in the morning. Just after noon I made my way into the museum, which houses an extensive collection of Egyptian and prehistoric treasures, including the famed Bust of Nefertiti. Although heavily bombed during WWII, the museum has been masterfully restored by David Chipperfield, and still retains the "entering into an Egyptian Temple" feel that was intended for it. 

A painting of the initial Egyptian Temple exhibit (via)

Stone tablets from Ancient Egypt

Praying statue of King Amenemhet II (circa 1800BC)

The famed Bust of Nefertiti (via)

Fourth on the docket for the day was the Bode Museum, and its collection of Byzantine art, sculpture, coins, and medals. The building itself survived fairly intact, a rarity in the area. While not as visited as the others, it deserves a look for its great collection of sculptures and art from Byzantium and Ravenna, as well as the controversial bust of Flora (originally, and perhaps mistakenly, attributed to da Vinci).

The facade of the Bode Museum (via)

Main atrium at the entrance to the Bode Museum (via)

Although I was tired and my feet were screaming at me to stop, I figured I might as well finish up with the final of the 5 museums - the Altes Museum. Probably the most architecturally amazing building, the exterior is modeled after the Stoa of Attalos in Athens (which we visited) and the interior contains an exact replica of the hemispheric dome of the Pantheon in Rome. It holds an extensive collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities.

The exterior facade of the Altes Museum

The rotunda gallery with Greek sculptures (via)

Even today, the collections of the museums are being reorganized, and even added to as once-lost bunkers full of amazing treasures are being rediscovered.The museums are all worth a visit (although maybe all 5 in one day is a bit too much), and cover topics that would appeal to everyone.

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