The Howl of the Wolf(sburg)

With Calli lured by the promise of some outlet shopping, we boarded the train on our second day in Berlin and headed for the nearby town of Wolfsburg to watch (another) soccer game.

Home to the Volkswagen headquarters, the city owes it's size to the car manufacturer that has essentially been the sole purpose of the city since its inception. Originally set up by the Nazis in 1938 to produce the "people's car", aka the Beetle, the city has grown from just 1000 people to over 130,000 today. Today the city is full of stylish modern architecture and large parks, however, the Volkswagen factory still dominates the skyline from wherever you are.

The Volkswagen factory - always visible in Wolfsburg

Unfortunately, German outlet shopping is more pricey than the American original and we left the stores empty handed. Although this part of the trip turned out to be a disappointment, the game itself turned out even better than we anticipated.

Approaching the Volkswagen Arena - Home of VFL Wolfsburg

The Bundesliga (the German Soccer League) has a reputation as providing the best atmosphere to watch soccer in the world, and from our experience this reputation is well-deserved. From the moment we arrived, we were amazed by the atmosphere. Electrically-charged but welcoming, cheap beers, sausages, and pretzels, wolf calls and singing - what more could you ask for? People were friendly and welcoming, and the stadium was fantastic lit up in neon green. From the warm-up to the end of the game we thoroughly enjoyed our experience there and would recommend going to a game to anyone, whether you are interested in soccer or not.

The atmosphere was electric

Start of the second half

Oh and the match was fantastic as well, ending in a 1-1 draw with multiple shots hitting the woodwork and a red card to boot. 

Heading home

The award-winning Phaeno building and the Volkswagen factory

 

After a long day, with our fingers and toes tingling from the cold temperatures of the outdoor stadium, we made our way back to Berlin with another successful European football game under our belts.

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Spain - Our Top 10

Over our four weeks in Spain we were able to cover a lot of ground, visiting Madrid, Barcelona, and a number of cities in Andalusia with a short stopover in Lisbon part way through. Here are our favorite sites, most memorable meals, and must see attractions from our time in beautiful Spain!

Mezquita 

If you've had a chance to read up on our visit to the Mezquita in Cordoba, it's probably not a surprise that it took the top spot. From our first steps inside we were captivated by the forest of red and white arches, while the detail of the Mihrab and the stunning Renaissance chapel and alter rendered us speechless for the duration of our visit. 

Segovia

A popular day trip from Madrid, Segovia grabbed out attention with it's stunning aqueducts and held it throughout the afternoon with a display of breathtaking viewpoints, a fairytale like alcazar, and an incredible gothic cathedral.  

 
 

Markets Galore 

Travis may go for the food and Calli for anything kitschy, but in the end cheap prices and people watching is the great equalizer. We've found wonderful markets throughout Spain, from La Boqueria in Barcelona to San Miquel Market in Madrid, and wonderful small flea markets throughout Andalucia, we definitely got our fill of window shopping.

 

 

Alhambra 

The last and greatest palace complex of the Moorish civilization in Spain is not only Granada's crowning jewel but a definite must see as well. The lines may be long, the admission process a bit convoluted, and the site expansive, but any confusion and sore feet are immediately forgotten upon entering the Nasrid Palace. 

 

Seville's Alcazar 

Like much of Andalucia, the beauty within this building lies in the seamless melding of Islam and Christianity. Rennaisance ceilings in some rooms, intricate tile work in others, and a central garden and reflecting pond made famous by Ridley Scott.

 

Gaudi 

Gaudi devoted over forty years to shaping Barcelona's architectural landscape and today, the city, and millions of tourists each year, pay homage to his creative genius. With seven of his buildings categorized as protected UNESCO World Heritage sites there are plenty of chances to contemplate his unique style. 

 
Prado Museum 

Although the French Impressionists at the Thyssen topped our list of Top 10 Art - Spain and Portugal, the Prado museum won us over in the end. With a seemingly endless collection of paintings and sculpture it's possible to spend a week here and still not see everything.

 
Madrid's Architecture 

From the Cathedral to the Royal Palace to the Piazza Mayor to the Gran Via, no city thus far (except maybe Zagreb) has put on such a display of architecture. Wandering through the city we didn't know where to look next, or where to focus the camera.

 

 

Plaza de Espana 

Hearing it was a worth a look, we decided to wander towards Parque de Maria Luisa one morning during our time in Seville. We ended up spending half the morning exploring and photographing the amazing Plaza de Espana. In a city boasting one of the largest cathedrals in the world and the only alcazar still in use in Europe, the Plaza has some heavy competition and it definitely holds its own.

 

 

Atletico Madrid Match 

We had a blast walking around the stadium, watching old people scream at the players, and laughing as a young guy paced up and down the aisles "coaching" the players and yelling instructions to the (actual) coach across the stadium. Oh and seeing a 30 yard volley to win the game in the 94th minute wasn't too bad either.

 

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Half Way Mark

Today, day sixty-one, officially marks the halfway point of our trip. Coincidentally, over breakfast this morning I told Travis I was ready to go home. Awkward. 

Yes, homesickness is starting to set in and honestly it's about time. However I find myself pining more for the convenience of a fridge, my own bathroom, a laundry machine, and some local Fresh is Best taco chips, more so than for family and friends. To any family and friends reading this, please don't be offended, technology (ie. Facebook) does a great job of keeping me apprised of your every move to the point that I still feel in touch. Also, please do some more exciting things, your status updates are becoming a bit passe. 

As we have officially survived two months of travel without running home, ending up in hospital, or killing each other (touch wood), we decided to celebrate and re-live some of our favorite moments thus far.

Chelsea FC Football Game

We failed to foresee any problems with catching a game on the night of our arrival in London - after a nine hour flight and significant time change. However Travis was able to fulfill a childhood dream, making it all worth while. And hey, the home team won!

Reading Festival - Performance by Of Monsters and Men

There were plenty of amazing performances at the Reading Music Festival this year, however Of Monsters and Men blew us away, and has definitely taken over our iPods since. If you haven't heard of them please go download their album right now - seriously, we'll wait. 

runner up - Florence + the Machine, playing in the pouring rain. It was worth getting completely drenched. 

The Ancient Acropolis

A bit surreal at times, it was difficult to grasp that I was actually standing on the Ancient Acropolis. After years spent daydreaming about getting there, I walked through in a bit of a fog, stopping every three feet to take another picture. Not until I was able to step back and see the site from afar did it start to sink in. I've been to the Acropolis.

Nafplio

In a surprise move, Nafplio stole top spot as our favorite place in Greece. Welcoming and quiet yet offering plenty to do, with amazing food and accommodations, we were sad to leave and only wish we lived closer to make weekend trips to this amazing city possible. 

Thunderstorms in Kotor

Our last day in Kotor it rained, and not just a little bit. I've honestly never heard thunder that loud, echoing off the stone fortifications it felt as though the storm was directly on top of us. Not to mention the rain, sheets of big fat raindrops puddling ankle deep on the cobblestone streets. The police shut down streets for fear of mudslides and the runoff left a lasting impression on the bay where the water level rose considerably.

Hotel Belvedere

Croatia has so much to offer and Travis and I agree that it deserves another visit in the future. In particular, we were blown away by the history in Dubrovnik and the chance to explore war torn Hotel Belvedere. It isn't often that the opportunity presents itself to get off the beaten path in an area seemingly overrun with throngs of cruise ship passengers, however this is exactly what our trip to Hotel Belvedere offered, only fifteen minutes from the ancient walled city.

Zagreb

The perfect end to an amazing run in Croatia, Zagreb's historic centre blew us away with pastel buildings and ornate architecture. Although one day allowed us to cover the highlights, it would be easy to spend two or three and the city has definitely become a must see for us in Croatia.

Cordoba's Mezquita

Thirty minutes into exploring this ancient religious site Travis and I looked at each other and whispered simultaneously "this is the most impressive building I have ever been in". A seamless combination of red and white Moorish arches, Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance Christian church, and thousands of years of history. Keep an eye out for our upcoming post.  

Food

Self explanatory to an extent, we have filled our bellies with some amazing meals in Europe thus far and only plan to continue that trend moving forward. Although top foodie award has to go to Travis, I've picked my fair share of great restaurants including a memorable Thai restaurant in Barcelona (who knew?). Absolute top meals to date include grilled squids in Kotor, Pasticada in Split, and Piri Piri chicken in Lisbon.

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Atletico Madrid Game

One of the things we've (and by that I mean me) have been most excited about is getting to some soccer games while traveling though Europe. After a fantastic experience watching Chelsea's home opener at Stamford Bridge (here if you missed it), we finally had a second chance in Madrid. As most people spent the day in anticipation of the upcoming el Classico between Real Madrid and Barcelona, we instead took the opportunity to see one of the top 10 teams in Europe play, Atletico Madrid.

Often overshadowed by the powerhouse of Real Madrid and their Galacticos, Atletico Madrid have quietly put together 2 Europa League and 2 European SuperCup titles in the past three years, and currently sit joint-first with Barcelona in La Liga. Oh, and they also smashed my beloved Chelsea 4-1 just a couple of weeks ago.

How do they get those banners made? (via)

We went in the morning to the ticket office at the Estadio Vicente Calderón and were able to purchase two tickets (50 bucks each) for their Europa League match against FC Viktoria Plzen of the Czech Republic.

Later in the evening, as the game time approached, we boarded the metro and joined the droves of red-and-white clad supporters as the sang and chanted their way to the stadium. As the stadium does not really have a vending area, all of the vendors set up their stands outside the stadium, creating a unique setting I've not experienced before a game. It felt like a huge tailgate party with tens of thousands of Atleti fans eating sandwiches, drinking beer, and discussing the upcoming game.

Vendors sold everything from scarves to spitz! (via)

When it was time to enter, we made our way into the stadium and managed to find our seats with little problem. The stadium is a massive open-air construction and we were right on the halfway line. The stadium wasn't quite full but it was still a formidable atmosphere when the game started.

Inside the stadium

The game itself was more of a chess-match than anything else - Plzen did a textbook job of sitting back and absorbing the pressure, and the Rojiblancos did their best to try and generate a scoring chance. The game looked more and more like it would end in a draw, with every passing second only serving to further aggravate the loyal supporters who were frothing at the mouth for a goal. And then in the 93rd minute, when all hope seemed lost, a screaming 25-yard full volley by the man of the match Cristian Rodriguez changed it all. Atletico grabbed their astounding 15th straight Europa League win and moved into sole position at the top of their group. 

Just before kickoff.

The atmosphere was a joyous one as the fans sang and danced in their seats after the final whistle sounded.

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A trip to Stamford Bridge

Visiting Stamford Bridge, home of my favorite soccer team Chelsea Football Club, has always been on my to-do list; so as we were already in London in preparation for the Reading Music Festival, it seemed like the perfect time to check this off. Having apparently not learned anything since my last trip to Europe, I found myself in a strangely similar situation of having traveled for more than 24 hours, operating on very little sleep, and going to a late night soccer match. 

Fans eagerly awaiting the start of a new season

After dropping the backpacks off at our Hyde Park hotel, we hopped on the tube and set off for the game. At every stop, flocks of fans in Chelsea blue packed into the train on their way to the stadium - and this was 3 hours before kickoff! After getting out at Fulham Broadway, we wandered to find some food before heading to the stadium. We settled on a couple salads (a nice change from airport food!) from a store resembling Nature's Fare. Not knowing exactly where the stadium was, we did the obvious thing and just followed the stream of people chanting and singing their way down the street.

The East Stand entrance at Stamford Bridge

As we came around the corner, the familiar facade of Stamford Bridge came into full and magnificent view. Built in 1876 and remodeled many times, the historic building is still surrounded by brick rowhouses which give it a unique feel. We wandered over and painlessly collected our tickets (50 pounds each on the halfway line about 10 rows up) and then proceeded to meander around the outside of the stadium taking pictures in front of the posters of Chelsea legends. A quick stop in the Chelsea Megastore provided a premature birthday presents courtesy of Calli (two awesome new jerseys...we passed on the Chelsea branded rubber duck and bike locks). With an hour and a half still to go before kick off, we grabbed some fish and chips (for TJ) and found ourselves a seat to people-watch. 

Zola

About an hour before kick-off they began letting people in to the stadium. We quickly found our seats and took some pictures of the impressive interior of Stamford Bridge. The atmosphere grew and grew as the rest of the 42,000 fans filed into the stadium. Eventually the players came out and warmed up to rousing cheers. The announcer introduced the three newest Chelsea signings - Eden Hazard, Oscar, and Marko Marin. Finally, it was time for the game to begin.

Our seats for the game

And what a game it was! Multiple lead changes, tons of chances, and 6 goals in total - a long range blast, a wonderful header, a penalty - all resulting in an exhilarating 4-2 Chelsea win over Reading. The screaming, the chanting, the cursing - it is unlike any other sport in the world and extremely good entertainment. We both left the stadium for the short train ride home with great big smiles on our face.

A panorama of the interior of Stamford Bridge

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