Sunday, February 10, 2013

The Mystery of Stonehenge

Standing amid the towering slabs of rock it's impossible not to wonder, as millions have before you; why here, in the middle of idyllic rolling fields and deeply wooded forest? How were these gigantic stones cut and moved, tens of thousands of years before hydraulic machines and towering cranes were even an idea? Who were the people that created and built this magnificent site? What was the purpose of such a large monument? For the last  leg of our trip, we were on a journey to find out!


With a few days in the UK before our flight home, we decided to leave London for the quiet countryside of Wiltshire county. But the beauty of the surrounding rolling hills and idyllic towns were only a part of the attraction - the real appeal was the allure of Stonehenge. Famous for it's enormous rocks, and how little historians have been able to unearth about it's purpose, Stonehenge is a enchantingly beautiful sight still brimming with mystery and intrigue. 

As life in the English countryside is much slower than that of London, we found bus service between towns, and to Stonehenge, a bit hit or miss. Unfortunately the public bus route serving the site was cancelled last year leaving only two options to reach Stonehenge without a rental car. Option 1 - catch a public bus to nearby Amesbury and walk two miles to the site, or Option 2 - board the Stonehenge tourist bus in Salisbury (where we were staying) for a direct trip to the site and optional return stop at Old Sarum. 

The iconic stones of Stonehenge in all their glory.

Although we normally try to avoid tour groups by any means necessary, after a warning from our B&B owner that tourists have been killed walking along the winding road from Amesbury to Stonehenge, we decided to cough up the twenty pound/person fee for the tourist bus (this fee does include admission to Stonehenge and Old Sarum as well as front of the line access). 

As it turns out, the bus was actually quite enjoyable, although a bit pricier than we would have preferred, and the audio track that played through the speakers was more informative than annoying.

The sight as you enter the grounds.
The site's visitor centre isn't what you'd picture for a site as important and well visited as Stonehenge, especially after visits to comparable ancient sites like the Acropolis, Alhambra, or Colosseum. With only a small ticket window, gift shop, and portable lavatories on the side of a two lane country road, the site is functional and understated, fitting in perfectly with the quaint countryside. However rustic it may be, what the facilities lack in size and grandeur the stones more than make up for. 

The size of the stones is amazing once you get up close - over 24 feet tall in some cases.

As you pass under the road and finally enter the site, you are immediately entranced by the stones. A haunting and ethereal echo of days long since forgotten, the massive stones rise in majesty and stimulate even the most meager of imaginations. Theories abound regarding their construction and purpose - some sane and some gleefully insane. Whatever you believe to be true, no one can deny the massive effort it must have taken to transport and erect the stones. 

The "Heelstone" sits just outside the circle

While you can walk in and amongst the stones if you make special arrangement, the vast majority of visitors just take the short circular pathway around the stones - a thoroughly satisfying experience in its own right. The audioguide given to you for free upon entrance enhances the experience with fascinating facts about the mysterious and storied history of the site. 

A marker showing the location of one of the original wooden posts from the original henge

There's just something about Stonehenge that lures people to it...not unlike the Pyramids or the Colosseum. It's got the right combination of mystery, intrigue, and extravagant speculation that just make it a must see. The site itself is not what you'd expect (although I think that's a good thing), but the aura of seeing something that people still don't fully understand is definitely an uncommon experience and one that you won''t forget.

One of the many burial mounds scattered around the region


While the site of Stonehenge is undoubtedly the main reason that people venture to England's West Country, it should be noted that it is not the only neolithic site in the region. In fact, this particular region of the country is one of the most dense when it comes to neolithic sites. If Stonehenge managed to intrigue you, and you want to see something else, check out the henge at Avebury, Woodhenge, the Durrington Walls, or even Old Sarum.

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Friday, February 8, 2013

Surprised by the Victoria and Albert Museum

Amid all of London's amazing (and free!) museums, it may be easy to overlook the Victoria and Albert Museum - in fact we almost did. Luckily, we decided to pop in for an hour, as it was free and close to our hotel, and we were completely surprised by it's ability to offer something unique and different when compared to many of the more traditional and famous museums in the area. 

The facade of the V&A (via)

The beautiful glass sculpture in the lobby


A grand piano in the paintings hall

A great example of Chinese sculpture

Walking in, we only knew that the museum's displays are focused on art and design. But this only begins to describe the treasures it holds, and from the moment we entered the beautiful Victorian building to the moment we left, we were surprised and impressed with what uncovered around every corner. 

A screen from a home in the ancient Middle East
Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the Victoria and Albert Museum lies in it's laid out. Pieces are grouped into categories (Fashion, Art, Metalwork, Sculpture, Architecture, Painting...) and then displayed by period, which allows visitors the unique opportunity to compare similar trends within an era of time. This provided a stark contrast to the many museums we visited prior that display their items by civilization or origin (Egyptian, Roman, Middle Eastern...). This layout also allowed us to compare and contrast many of the different trends in far reaching areas of the world at a single time in history. As a result, delicate hand-sewn shoes worn in Europe reside next to two-toed socks worn with sandals in Asia dating to the same time period, while a nearby case holds an arrangement of glistening jewels showcasing some of Marie Antoinette's incredible rings and pendants, as well as those worn by her counterparts during the same period in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East.

Medieval wooden sculpture

Beautiful stained glass

The Victoria and Albert Museum houses a permanent display of over 4.5 million pieces and is sure to offer something for everyone in your party. While we thoroughly enjoyed many of the displays, Calli was particularly fond of the costume collection featuring designer outfits and accessories from the 1600s to present day. It was amazing to see the many layers of undergarments and petticoats that went into the outfits of the 17th century and see how drastically the styles changed as we circled the room. To demonstrate the fashion trends, the displays incorporate many runway pieces from famous design houses including Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, and Valentino.

1960s style

Sex Pistols-inspired punk style

Some articles from Christian Dior

Another section of the museum we found fascinating was the architecture displays. Containing building elements such as the two top stories of the facade of the Sir Paul Pindar house, a survivor of the Great Fire of London that dates to the 1600s, and an almost intact Renaissance chapel from Santa Chiara, Florence, it's impossible to not be impressed. 

The top two stories of the Paul Pindar House (via)

For those that love art, a wonderful collection of paintings from the  likes of Constable, Turner, and even Raphael await. Like sculpture instead - you're in luck as works from Bernini, Canova, Rodin, and many others await. And best of all, you can enjoy them in relative peace (when compared to the National Gallery or TATE) as the V&A is much less busy than many of London's other museums. 




Whatever you like in museums, you are sure to find something that you like in the Victoria and Albert Museum - and probably something you didn't even know you like as well.



As with the majority of the free museums in London, you do have to pay for some of the temporary exhibits if you want to see them. To check out what's on when you are there, you can visit their website here.

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Friday, January 25, 2013

Victoria's Secret Hits London

Glossy black, lacquered fuchsia, and sparkling chandeliers - Victoria Secret epitomizes everything girly (positive body images excluded). However, their new European flagship store in London kicks everything up a hundred thousand notches or so. With floor to ceiling damask wallpaper in a velvet texture, faceted glass-pained banisters, leopard print rugs, four story spiral staircase, and private rooftop suite reserved for A-listers needing a glass of champagne to go along with their private fitting, the store redefines the word glamorous.

The stunning staircase (via)
However, as beautiful as it is inside, the store is equally stunning outside with large window displays featuring the nearly-there runway costumes donned by the Angels in the brand's annual runway show. Getting up close to these costumes you can easily see the hundreds of tiny gemstones, delicate lace, silky satin fabric, and tiny bow embellishments that make up these intricate costumes, as well as an accompanying photo from the runway show and short description. 

Doutzen Kroes on the runway...    (via)

...and her outfit on display in the store.

Another outfit

And one more!
Hate the lingerie mogul if you will, this store is definitely worth a walk-by when in London, as is the whole of Bond Street where it's located.


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Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Travis Eats His Way Through Europe (Part 2 - The Adriatic Coast)

For the second installment of "reading about, looking at pictures, and becoming insanely jealous of the various foods we ate in Europe" I have decided to write about the food we consumed while traveling along the Adriatic Coast - namely in Montenegro and Croatia.

While I was fairly familiar with the cuisine we encountered in Greece, I really had no idea what to expect in Montenegro and Croatia. I thought (and Calli hoped) that it might be similar to Greek food (it wasn't) or Italian food (kind of...I guess), however in the end we found an abundance of fresh fish and local favorites to fill our bellies.

Italian inspired dishes with local twists are very common.

As you may expect, given the locations we traveled to (mainly along the coast), Croatian and Montenegrin cuisine revolves extensively around the fresh daily seafood catch from the Adriatic. Squid and octopus, mussels and clams, and fish of all imaginable shapes and size are featured on menus everywhere. 


Fried squids and grilled fish at Buffet Fife in Split

Being from British Columbia, we are definitely seafood lovers and took every available opportunity to try the local variations, including Dalmatian fish soup (Dalmatinska riblja juha); fried, deep-fried, and grilled squids; flavourful fish soups; and a wide array of grilled fresh fish. 

Seafood risotto and grilled squids with fresh greens at Cesarica in Kotor
Squids galore at Lokanda Peskarija in Dubrovnik

Our culinary experiences were not limited to seafood,however, and a few of our top food experiences in Croatia and Montenegro came from more traditional inland recipes. Pasticada (a flavourful stewed beef dish often served with hand-rolled gnocchi), fresh local greens known for their immense health benefits (like chard and spinach), and amazing hand-made pastries can be found in traditional konobas - small restaurants that started as wine cellars and are now home to some of the most traditional meals in these two countries. 

Pasticada with gnocchi


Freshly baked traditional pastries

Additionally, we were very surprised at the immense influence that Italian traditions has had on the region. Gnocchi, pizza, and risotto - all with local twists or variations - were found on nearly every menu, and almost all that we tried were very, very good (much better, in fact, than most of what we had in Italy). 

Delicious pizza with fresh local prosciutto

If you are interested in some of our favourite restaurants, we would recommend Dalmatinska Konoba Cesarica in Kotor (wonderful traditional Montenegrin dishes at affordable prices), Lokanda Peskarija in Dubrovnik (great seafood right by the water at very reasonable prices), and Buffet Fife (no website but here is a review) in Split (great traditional Croatian dishes like fish soup and pasticada).


If you missed the last part of this series (or can't remember it because it was months and months ago) you can find it here!

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Where We've Been Hiding

Coming home has been quite the adjustment. Not only did we have to adapt our sleeping patterns to the Pacific Standard Time Zone, which took longer than either of us expected after being away for four months, we had to get back into the swing of a daily routine and try to slide back into social situations after being alone for so long. As it turns out, after being each others primary sounding board for so long our conversation skills and interpretations of social situations were a bit rusty, much to our embarrassment around the dinner table Christmas day. 

After the gifts were opened, Christmas decorations put away, and our winter clothes pulled out of storage, we easily slipped into a daily routine of waking late, lounging in our pajamas, and showering a bit too infrequently, for which I will not apologize. As it turns out, the reason people secure full time employment, in addition to paying their bills and for the sheer joy of working forty hours a week, is to avoid falling into this sedentary lifestyle of horrible daytime television, matted greasy hair, and insomnia resulting from the act of sleeping until two in the afternoon. 

Without rules or responsibilities, it appears the only way back to a world of cleanliness, where blog posts get written and the dished get washed, may be to pull ourselves up by the ol' bootstraps, or at least start holding each other more accountable. With that in mind, our intention is to get back into the swing of things here, finish up our outstanding posts on the marvelous things we saw and did in England during the last week of our trip, and follow that up with all the juicy details you've been dying to know; What would we do differently next time? How did we manage to pay for all of it? Where are we off to next? Who got gifts and what did we bring them? 

Yes, all this and more coming your way over the next few weeks - so long as we don't relapse into our pajamas.

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Hey there!

Calli and Travis returned from a four month trip through Europe more excited than ever to hit the open road. Who knows where they'll end up next...

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