From Dinosaurs to Dodos - Vienna's Natural History Museum

Having already gone 2 for 2 in the Natural History Museum column, with fantastic and interesting visits to the Natural History Museum in London and La Specola in Florence, we decided to try and continue our streak in Vienna. The Naturhistorisches Museum Wien (or Museum of Natural History of Vienna) was originally created to house the extensive collection of Emperor Franz Joseph I and now contains more than 30 million objects (yes, million with an 'm'), some of which date back over half a billion years.

The facade of the Natural History Museum (via)

Immediately upon entering the museum, the wealth of the Habsburg empire is evident. Located in Maria-Theresian Platz across from its sister building (the Museum of Fine Arts), the building is more reminiscent of a palace than a museum, and features amazing frescoes, sculptural details, paintings, and mosaics.

Frescoes and paintings adorn the interior

 
Still in awe of the building, we made our way to the first floor exhibits which provide an amazing display on the history of the planet and the human race. They begin with an extensive rock, mineral, and gemstone collection, including a 115kg piece of quartz, and moves onto the oldest meteorite collections in the world, ranging in size from pea-sized to large boulders from around the world. 

Cases and cases of rare and interesting rocks and minerals

Fossilized dinosaur footsteps

Fossils galore greet visitors as they continue through the halls of the ground floor. Trilobites, sea scorpions, Nautilus shells, and countless other interesting fossilized specimens are made all the more compelling by the addition of models of what they would have looked like when they were walking (or swimming) the planet millions of years ago. The next few rooms, however, with numerous dinosaur skeletons, including an Allosaurus, Diplodocus, and Pterodactyl, draw the largest crowds and prove that dinosaurs still have the same awe-inspiring effect on adults as they do on children.

A massive Allosaurus immediately greets visitors in the dinosaur hall

Travis beside an Ultrasaurus leg

A feathered Deinonychus model

Finally we reached the real star of the museum - the 24,000 BC Venus of Willendorf. Discovered in 1908, the small statue of an interestingly shaped woman is one of the most important and oldest known statues in the world. In addition to the Venus, Mammoth hides used as clothing, 100,000-year old stone tools, and other objects of prehistoric human life are fascinating to look at.

The Venus of Willendorf (via)

Sculpture outside the museum

Their dodo

Although the first floor was the most impressive, especially the vast fossil and meteorite collections, we also took some time to wander through the second floor which covers the diversity of life on our planet from protozoans to elephants. A seemingly unending collection of taxidermy specimens and skeletons, including a number of critically endangered or extinct species (even a dodo), are regarded as one of the best in the world, however that many animals in glass cases is also a bit eerie. In addition to a ton of taxidermy, some original microscopes and old blown glass replicas of microscopic organisms add to the collection. 

With so many different museums to choose from in a city as diverse and culturally minded as Vienna, it was difficult to narrow down our decision, while also setting aside enough time to explore everything else the city offers. However we were extremely pleased with our visit, so pleased in fact that we count it as our favorite Natural History Museum of the trip - to date (Calli argues that this is a sign that we've visited too many). If you are interested in science, or geology, or even life in general, or if you have children, we'd highly recommend a visit and promise you won't be disappointed!

Calli and an elephant

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The Sexy World of Art Fakes

While researching a new destination, we are constantly on the lookout for unique, unknown, or weird attractions that may be a bit off the beaten path - Remember La Specola in Florence? Carmo Convent in Lisbon? How about the Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb? It's now time to add Vienna's Fakes Museum to the list.

After stumbling onto the Museum of Art Fakes (Falscher Museum in Austrian) online, we immediately decided to check it out. Being big fans of the USA Network show White Collar, this museum seemed right up our alley. Also I was wildly hoping that Matt Bomer would be there in the name of research and we would meet and fall madly in love and live happily ever after*.

Matt "the dreamboat" Bomer, as he's known around our house (via)

A small space with big (fake) art works

Turns out we were right about the museum being extremely cool, and ended up spending about an hour staring at the forged paintings and delving into the fascinating history of the forgers themselves. In addition to the precise way in which these forgeries were created - from the aged paper used to specific hardening processes, brush strokes, and in one case egg yolk washes - we found the history of the forgers very interesting. The museum provides a booklet (in multiple languages) that describes the lives of about a dozen forgers, many of whom attempted to make a legitimate career in the field of art but, after failing to find a market for their original works, turned to the lucrative world of forgery. 

Turner forgery (right)

Rembrandt copy (left) next to a photo of the original

We were also surprised to learn that many forgeries are not of a specific known masterpiece, as the appearance of these well known pieces at auction would be cause for inquisition. Instead, many forgers paint in a specific artist's style, and create paintings with the intent of passing as an original that was lost or previously unknown to the art world. Apparently this approach has worked quite well, as many of the master painters (Van Gogh, da Vinci, Picasso etc...) created hundreds or thousands of unclassified works. As well, many pieces of art have been considered lost overtime, especially during periods of war, with their existence becoming a mere myth. These forgers were so good they even fooled "experts" who verified the paintings as authentic works, giving the green light for their sale for millions of dollars.

Signed Monet forgery

Although the forgers features at the museum have been caught (and have served time or since passed away), many museums and collectors refused to cooperate with police investigations by turning over their paintings for fear they would be found to be fakes. As a result, many of the forgers were actually prosecuted due to their own arrogance and some even provided proof against themselves to ensure they received recognition for the works. Furthermore, there are potentially hundreds of fake and forged paintings being passed off as real works in museums and personal collections around the world.

The Art Fakes Museum is quite small - only one large room and a small shop - however it currently has about two dozen forged paintings on display as well as a small shop where you can order professional copies of masterpieces. Located across the street from Hundertwasserhaus, the museum is easy to find and definitely worth a visit.

*A few problems with this scenario if you haven't already figured it out, I love Travis and Matt Bomer is already committed with three kids- but it won't stop me from dreaming!

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A Holiday Tradition - Vienna's Christmas Markets

I'd had my heart set on visiting Vienna's Christmas Markets since the moment I learned of their existence - six months earlier in early May, not usually when sane people start planning for the holidays. After months of excited Christmas market chatter, and hours spent online researching the best markets in Vienna, we finally had the opportunity to visit one during our first day in Vienna. As it turns out, we loved it so much we returned nightly during our five days in the city and made time to stop at three additional markets in the area.

The lovely Rathausplatz market

Vienna's Christmas Markets, called Christkindlmarkt or Weihnachtsmarkt in Austria, are not only beautiful but also a holiday tradition that dates back over seven centuries. The first official Viennese Christmas Market was held in 1296, as an opportunity for traders and shopkeepers to sell their goods to residents, and although the goods being sold have changed with time, the attraction remains.

The largest and most popular market we visited during our time in Vienna is situated in front of City Hall, and therefore rightly named the Wiener Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz (Rathaus being the Austrian word for City Hall). In addition to hundreds of stalls selling everything from sausages and pretzels to hot mulled wine, dried fruit, and candied nuts, trees in the surrounding park are decorated with lights and there is a tall central Christmas Tree in front of the beautiful city hall. Overall, the atmosphere is quite incredible and we couldn't resist stopping in nightly to nibble on something new. 

One of hundreds of festive stalls

Ordering in Austrian is actually quite tricky

In addition to the large market at City Hall, we explored three other markets while in Vienna. The Weihnachtsdorf Maria Theresien-Platz Market, located on Museum Quartier next to the Natural History Museum, is still quite small, and only in it's fourth year of operation, therefore the walkways and stalls are less crowded than some of the larger markets (which we enjoyed). Besides a great selection of culinary treats, we found some unique gifts at the market to take home as well.

Hand painted ornaments

Although a bit difficult to find, as it's located in the central courtyard of the former General Hospital (now part of the University Campus), we found the Weihnachtsdorf im Alten AKH, (or "AKH" Christmas Market) on our second attempt and were really pleased with the younger atmosphere, clearly influenced by it's proximity to the University. We also discovered a delicious treat at this market called Schneeballen (or snowball) which is a type of pancake dough, cut into strips and formed into a ball before being fried and covered with powdered sugar. If you've ever had Italian Crostoli it tastes similar, however the consistency is more that of a cookie and less crunchy. 

Row of colourful stalls

Adorable little ornaments with fragrant cinnamon

Finally, we found our way into the historic neighbourhoods of the 7th District and the Weihnachtmarkt am Spittelberg. Although small, only a few blocks in length, this market (and surrounding stores) focuses on craft work and features some lovely jewellery, ceramics, and traditional holiday decor. I really enjoyed the handmade feel of this market and was able to find an adorable ornament to bring home as well. 

The amazingly tall tree in Rathausplatz

Strolling through these markets became one of our main activities in Vienna, taking some time away from museums and landmarks. However we really enjoyed trying new foods and immersing ourselves in the holiday spirit. After taking in the sights, sounds, and smells of these markets, it's easy to understand why so many tourists visit Vienna in December. Unfortunately, some larger and older markets we not yet open during our visit, (we were about a week too early but luckily didn't miss out all together) which seems to me like the perfect excuse to come back!

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Italy - Our Top 10

During our nearly one month stay in Italy we were able to visit an array of different regions and cities. To wrap up our trip, before moving onto Vienna and Berlin, here are our top ten Italian experiences.

Ancient Rome

No trip to Italy is complete without visiting the Colosseum. One of the Seven Wonders of the World, it is not only extremely impressive, even by today's standards, but also a testament to the building acumen of the ancient Romans. If that wasn't enough, you can walk in the footsteps of Augustus, Caesar, and the rest of Rome's important historical figures in the ruins of the Roman Imperial Forum and Palatine Hill.

The Colosseum - the centre of Ancient Rome

Cinque Terre

Five cities perched on the Ligurian coast caused us to forget everything - blog posts, TV, calling home, and even bickering - if only for a few days. Rightly a UNESCO World Heritage Site, these five cities still seem to operate the same way they have for hundreds of years, oblivious to the millions of tourists flocking to see them every year.

Riomaggiore - our home for 4 days

Pompeii and Herculaneum

Perhaps the best opportunity to step back nearly 2000 years and explore a fully functioning Roman city - from palaces and temples to storefronts, cafeterias, and small family homes. Ironically, by being destroyed, Pompeii and Herculaneum survived, untouched and avoided the slow degradation of generation upon generation building on top of each other. 

Pompeii - destroyed but not gone

Burano

A photographer's playground, with it's brightly painted houses and winding canals, Burano provides the authenticity that Venice is now missing. Even as water buses deposit groups of tourists on the island hourly, it somehow manages to retain a laid back, peaceful feeling.  

 

Burano - full of colour

Sculpture

With the likes of Michelangelo, Raphael, Donatello, and Bernini (wait, he wasn't a ninja turtle), the Italians easily dominate in the field of sculpture and there's no better place to bask in the glory of their masterpieces than Florence. The Uffizi, Bargello, and Accademia museums feature works by these famous sculptors as well as many others. 

Giasone - one of our favorite sculptures in Italy

The Vatican Museum

Our favorite Italian museum (that we've visited), and a serious contender for best overall, the Vatican Museum won us over with it's collections which are large both in size and scope. From ancient Egyptian artifacts, to Greek and Roman sculptures, classical and modern paintings, and the museum's architecture, the museum offers something for everyone - and it's also home to the Sistine Chapel. 

The Raphael Rooms - one of art's great achievements

Pizza

Naples may be credited with the invention of this tasty dish, however we found restaurants throughout the country serving up mouth watering versions. Our favorites were Senzanome, in Florence, and Dar Poeta, in Rome. 

Pizza at Senzanome

Montemartini

Unable to get enough sculpture in Florence, we added a trip to the Montemartini Museum to our Roman itinerary and were blown away at the exhibition space - a historic electric plant. The contrast between the soft white marble sculptures and dark metal engines, valves, and pipes is gorgeous and provides a great photo opportunity as well. 

Juxtaposition at Montemartini

Basilica San Marco

Unrivaled for the title of most opulent by anything we've seen to date, Basilica San Marco makes up for what it lacks in size and scale with an abundance of sparkling gold mosaics. The lavish exterior, situated next to the equally stunning Doge's Palace, and mosaic covered interior leave visitors with a true understanding of how rich and powerful this republic really was. 

Basilica San Marco - one of the best in the world

The Pantheon

Was it famous before Dan Brown included it in his best selling novel Angels and Demons? If so, it's impossible to tell now, as visitors flock to the site hoping to glimpse a hidden symbol, or at least Raphael's tomb - which actually isn't that easy to spot. However for us, the building's architecture is the real draw. 

The Pantheon - an architectural marvel

A reminder, many more photos from our time in Italy, as well as the entire trip through Europe can be found on our Flickr page.

Hope you enjoyed our list...think we missed anything? Let us know!

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The Colours of Burano

It's easy to go photo-crazy in a place like Burano, with it's striking painted houses in every imaginable colour (yes that's right, colour with an "o-u") and its picturesque canals, and Calli did just that. We spent the day wandering the friendly streets, eating pasta and pizza, looking at bead shops (and by we, I mean Calli), and looking for Campion boats in the marina (no such luck).

Burano is a lovely island, even if its skipped over in favour of Murano far too often. While it doesn't have the glass-blowing shows, it does offer a glimpse into somewhat "everyday Italian" life that is otherwise missing from the region. We enjoyed watching fishermen bring back their catches and people hanging their laundry, and loved how much pride they seemed to have for their little island. 

The houses are all painted these bright colours so that returning fisherman could navigate back to their houses even in the dense fog that settles here. In any case, they make for some fantastic photo opportunities.

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True Genius - da Vinci in Venice

While we didn't make much time for museums in Venice (perhaps a combination of our budget and already having been to some amazing museums), but one we couldn't pass up was an exhibition on Leonardo da Vinci designed with the purpose of bringing his inventions to life.

360 degree mirror da Vinci used for working on perspective

The organ in the church

Housed inside the small Church of San Barnaba, the collection of machines made from his sketches is both intriguing and amazing. The wooden models, some of which are interactive, range from ball-bearings to bicycles to tanks  to helicopters to double-hulled boats. Each model is placed beside a reproduction of the original sketch, making it all the more interesting. In addition to the models, prints of some of his most famous sketches, sculptures, and paintings adorn the walls. 

A column lifter - simple but brilliant

One of the many designs for a flying machine

One of the first designs for ball bearings

A flying machine and a bicycle

 

When walking around looking at what he accomplished in his life it's easy to be blown away. Besides creating some of the most famous pieces of art in the world (The Mona Lisa, The Last Supper, The Vitruvian Man) and creating designs for machines that wouldn't be built for hundreds of years (he lived from 1452 to 1519), he also was an accomplished botanist, came up with a rudimentary theory of how plate tectonics worked, made extensive inroads into the world of anatomy, wrote music and novels, and even created incredibly accurate maps. 

An incredibly accurate map of Imola, Italy (via)

A self-portrait of the man himself (via)

The Vitruvian Man (via)

No matter what your interests, you can't help but be impressed. Even though the museum is small and simple, it has enough to occupy visitors of all ages for hours upon end. You can find it by looking for the Chiesa di San Barbara, and entry is 8 euro per person.

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