BC Salmon Runs

There came a time during our last trip when, halfway around the world, we realized we knew more about the cities and towns we were visiting in Europe than much of the area we have called home for for over twenty years. It can be so easy to leave, seeking adventure, without ever realizing what was in front of you all along. As a result, we made exploring and promoting local attractions one of our top priorities for 2013.

One such local attraction, the annual Salmon Run, takes place every fall in mid-October when Salmon return from the Pacific Ocean to the upper reaches of inland rivers to spawn. Flushed a deep crimson red, the spawning salmon return to the place of their birth to lay and fertilize their eggs, they then die and the life-cycle begins again.

The Adams River, forty-five minutes from our hometown of Kamloops, is one of the most important breeding grounds for Sockeye Salmon in North America, and the major reason for Roderick Haig-Brown Provincial Park's existence. Although total numbers vary by year, with every fourth year being a dominant run, anyone attending school in the area has at one time or another joined a field trip to take in this natural phenomenon.

Unfortunately, it becomes easy to overlook even the most miraculous of natural occurrences, and I never paid it much attention until 2010, when the run, the largest since 1913, made headlines with an estimated 34 million fish entering the Fraser River near Vancouver, 3.86 million of which returned to the Adams River to spawn. In addition to impressing the countless visitors, the 2010 Salmon Run also marked a remarkable rebound from 1994 when only 660,000 fish returned.

A trip to the Adams River makes for a fantastic day. The weather in Fall is crisp yet sunny, and the leaves on the trees are still changing colour. The breeding salmon, recently turned a spectacular red, bump and jockey for room to maneover themselves and to try and lay claim to the ideal breeding location, all of which makes the Adams River Salmon Run a must-see event. 

If you will be in British Columbia, Alaska, or parts of Scotland this fall, I'd highly recommend looking into notable runs in the area and making time to check out one of these incredible occurrences. The next dominant run in the Adams River will be Autumn 2014. There are also many photography and adventure tours that focus on the natural predators up stream, mainly bears, whose presence is increased due to an abundance of food. 

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Bath - A City of History

As the only British city to be regarded in its entirety as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Bath is undoubtedly one of the most historically important and interesting cities in all of the UK. Originally settled as a Roman resort called "Aquae Sulis" due to the presence of the world famous thermal springs located there, today Bath is a thriving resort town, and one of the most popular tourist spots in the country.

The Roman Baths (via)

The Roman Baths are undoubtedly the main attraction to most of the 4 million people that make the 1.5 hour trip from London. First noticed by the Romans and then made popular once again under Stuart and Georgian rule for their supposed healing properties, Bath became one of the in-style destinations for the British upper class and has remained so to this day. But the Roman Baths are not all that Bath has to offer. 

The Royal Crescent (via)

Some of the beautiful green space in Bath

Given its UNESCO World Heritage Site status, it should not be surprising that the city offers more than just the baths. A fantastic Abbey, some of the best examples of Georgian Architecture in all of England, one of only four store-lined bridges in the world, great parks, wonderful shopping, and a fantastic rugby team all await visitors to the City of Bath. 

The entrance to Bath Abbey

As we only had a day to explore the city, we decided to use some of the experience that we had gathered on our trip and utilize the free walking tour of Bath provided by the Mayor of Bath's Corps of Honorary Guides. These guides, many of which are retirees with extensive knowledge of the city, provide free (really free - like no-tips-allowed-free) approximately 2 hour walking tours of the major sites of Bath. 

The Pulteney Bridge - one of only four shop-lined bridges in the world

Unfortunately for us it was pouring rain the day we visited, but our guide made the best of it and we spent as much time as we could under cover. We learned about the history of the Roman Baths and the early settlement of the city, how Jane Austen ties into the city, the different architectural styles of the city's neighbourhoods, and many more interesting facts. We even saw Nicolas Cage's house.

The River Avon and the Pulteney Bridge (via)

Even though we got soaked all day long, Bath still was a fascinating city to visit and well worth the time. It is easy to get to via train from London (and the station is right in the center of town), and is compact enough to be explored by foot in a day or two.

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A Trip to Old Sarum

After exploring Stonehenge, we decided to take advantage of our tour bus' optional stop at Old Sarum and hopped off, hoping to experience something a little more off the beaten path in Wiltshire County. Our lovely host Trish had recommended Old Sarum as an interesting site, and she was spot on. Unfortunately we hadn't tuned into the weather report that morning, or inspected the ominous clouds in the distance before bidding adieu to our transportation into Salisbury, and we were in for a wet surprise. 

The remains of the Motte-and-bailey castle defences.

The site of the earliest settlement in current day Salisbury, Old Sarum contains evidence of human habitation as early as 3000 BC and is now an English Heritage Site open to the public. While not a whole lot remains these days, Old Sarum was once an impressive Iron Age hill fort of high strategic value.The site was first  used by the Roman before being passed on to the Saxons and then the Normans. Under Norman control a large royal palace for King Henry I was built and stood as a royal residence during the 12th and 13th centuries. 

The ridge running around is covered in chalk

What remains of Old Sarum today is a castle motte, complete with part of the original stone walls and the remnants of the massive ditch surrounding the site.The foundations of many of the walls of the fort and castle, as well as the cathedral outside the castle walls, are still intact today and visitors are free to walk amongst the ruins.

The remains of the iron age fort and subsequent castle

After a short hike to the top, we were impressed by the seeming impenetrability of the fort. Even as it lay in ruins, nearly two thousand years since it was last inhabited, the enormous banks and ditches that surround the fort stand as evidence of it's once strategic military presence. The River Avon flows just a few hundred feet away, and the spire of Salisbury Cathedral can be seen in the distance.  

The remains of the old Cathedral at Old Sarum

We spent a good hour exploring the site and admiring the fantastic views. There were a good number of people going for walks along the Avon and playing football in the park nearby.As it looked like a nice day, we decided to take the popular walk from Old Sarum back to Salisbury...poor choice. The British winter crept up on us about halfway through the 30 minute walk and we were swept up in a torrential rainstorm not unlike the one we experienced in Kotor. Despite this minor wet setback, we ended up having a fabulous time visiting both Stonehenge and Old Sarum, and would definitely recommend a visit if you have the time. 

The view to town with Salisbury Cathedral - look at that inviting sky!

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